Sharing the Table XI

post no. 78

30 April 2012 0 comments

Sharing the Table XIIn the midst of a demanding stretch at work, when it was impossible to think about anything Ingredients, we hosted our latest Sharing the Table. It was good to get back into thinking about food as something other than what’s easy and quick for dinner tonight.

The whole world changed since our bistro-y meal in March—spring! It wasn’t yet asparagus and peas spring, or first lettuce in the garden spring. But it did inspire thoughts of lamb which, in a winding road way, led to a recipe by the mother of a cook who works with Daniel Boulud. We liked it for the same reason chef Boulud chose to write about it—it was a curry, and unexpected. It led to other Indian-ish ideas, and this became our menu:

Toasted Naan with Nigella Seed and Cumin • Spicy Chickpea Poppers • Tears of the Prophet Cocktail

Tandoori Chicken Wings with Pickled Cauliflower • Cucumber Mint Riata • Cilantro Chutney

Lamb and Spinach Curry • Basmati Rice

Cardamom Saffron Panna Cotta with Grilled Pineapple

Look how green the curry is!

Lamb and Spinach Curry

This may have been our eleventh meal, but it had a significant first: first epic failure of a dish. We’ve had disappointments before, dishes that didn’t taste as good or weren’t as well-cooked as they might have been. This was different. Our drink bite was intended to be aloo tikka, Indian potato fritters, but while cooking them a half hour before guests were expected to arrive, I watched in dismay as the little cakes simply dissolved in the hot pan. There was nothing in the recipe to bind the potato. They crumbled, stuck to the bottom, were impossible to turn…So, we improvised with wedges of warm, buttered naan, something I’d picked up at Kalustyan’s and planned to serve with the lamb.

In fact the whole meal had an ill-fated feeling to it. The fritters failed. The lamb seemed overly spicy when I tasted it earlier in the afternoon. (This was mitigated by the creamed spinach and yogurt, added just before serving—it was a great dish.) The rice started to break apart during its preliminary rinse—literally, the grains were shattering into rice bits. And as late as 7:00 the panna cotta still hadn’t set, so we were thinking we could pretend it was a pudding. Somehow it held together just enough, though it did have the look of a floppy breast implant when turned out over the pineapple:

Cardamom and saffron panna cotta

And yet, and yet….All was well, the company was terrific, and lessons were learned: 1. have backup; 2. avoid random recipes off the internet, or, if unavoidable, vet with common sense; 3. try challenging recipes or unfamiliar techniques at least once before winging it for company; 4. see #1.

Our charity was Montclair’s Human Needs Food Pantry. And one of these days, we will have a minute to experiment with the camera and its settings, and will work on getting better photos:

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Scrape. Scrub. Rinse. Repeat.

post no. 77

11 March 2012 2 comments

Recently we were visiting friends, a family of four, and Paula, the mom, cooked a delicious dinner of falling-off-the-bone ribs, a French potato salad she was trying for the first time, even a key lime pie. We’d been out sightseeing all day and ate like trenchermen, and afterward everyone pitched in and cleared the table. The kids then disappeared to their shared rooms as the grown-ups drifted into the kitchen and talked in whispery tones. It was late, the lights were low, and though it felt like time for bed we just kept on talking while—wait a minute—while Paula, who cooked the meal, started doing the dishes.

Secretly this made me very happy. To one who also cooks and often winds up, by choice, cleaning up, it was reassuring to see another half of a couple who simply accepted that this was part of the job of making a meal; that there was no division of labor, with its “those that cook shalt not clean” ethos which, in a surprising way, makes me feel a little self-conscious about the pleasure I take in the work of returning the kitchen to its original state.

Partly it’s a Zen thing. Washing dishes is one of those engaging ordinary tasks, the modern equivalent of chop wood, carry water. It’s something you do instead of thinking about doing. It’s tactile, tangible, finite, meditative. It gets you out of your head and delivers the concrete satisfaction of a job completed, something that’s not so easy to come by in a world where many of us are caught in a continuum of never-ending abstract work.

Partly it’s about taking responsibility. Cooking can be taxing, even harrying at times, but it is, if you like it at all, the fun job. Cleaning up isn’t, especially for more than a one-pot meal. So when I go overboard on the pots and pans, mixing bowls and roasting sheets, at least I’ve factored in the aftermath. A decision to re-start the sauce in another pan isn’t going to leave an irritating surprise for someone else.

And partly it’s selfish thing. It is satisfying. It appeals to the perfectionist in me, getting everything put away just so. And after a holiday meal or large dinner party, it is an interesting kind of puzzle, like a crossword or sudoku, figuring out the best way to tackle the job.

For all I know, Paula hates doing the dishes, and lost a coin toss to see who was going to clean up. But I prefer to think that, like me, she knows that chores are invaluable in keeping our feet on the ground. Or to paraphrase a popular mindfulness book, “After the ecstasy, the sink.”

 

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Sharing the Table Turns One

February 13, 2012

So, we went around the calendar. We hosted our first Sharing the Table last March, and this past Saturday, our ninth. That’s twelve months, with no dinners over the typically busy summer. What did we learn? People really like a dinner party! Guests enter awkwardly, and leave bestowing hugs and warm handshakes. People like supporting [...]

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Rapscallions

February 8, 2012

My father was an onion eater. Raw onions on sandwiches, on hamburgers, on salads. Diced and piled on the side with a plate of franks and beans. On dark bread, with chicken livers. Folded into a peculiar lunch dish he made for himself, sour cream and vegetables, which was what it sounded like: a bowl [...]

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Second Chance Greens

January 29, 2012

The other night I took my oldest son to Momofuku. He’d been to Momofuku Ssam before, but not the original noodle bar. I couldn’t wait for him to try the ramen. See, I said, watching with a particular kind of pleasure as he tasted the food, as the look on his face changed with each [...]

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Radicchios Are Red

January 11, 2012

We eat with our eyes first, the saying goes. But of course we also shop with our eyes. We reach for the vibrant orange bunch carrots, the satsuma with its glossy dark leaves attached, the exotic green zebra-striped tomatoes. Lately, as I’ve been photographing ingredients as well as cooking them, the beauty in food has [...]

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The Lovely Bones

December 18, 2011

  We had Thanksgiving this year with friends, a lovely shared meal, and as we were packing up to leave I asked our host if he had any plans for the turkey carcass. It was a big one, originally an eighteen-pounder, most of the meat already carved off, and I had the feeling that it, [...]

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Sharing the Table

December 13, 2011

We started Sharing the Table—dinner parties for charity—at the end of last winter as a way to explore ingredients, cook for old and new friends, and do it all for a good cause: everyone who comes makes a donation to a food charity. This past weekend saw the seventh and last of our dinners for [...]

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The First Thanksgiving

November 20, 2011

Cervantes famously said: “Hunger is the best sauce.” So often what we bring to a meal, emotionally, physically, how we respond to the surroundings, is more important than what’s on the plate, as anyone who’s ever eaten cheese and apples during a fall hike knows. It’s why we love certain restaurants in spite of the food. [...]

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Vineland

November 16, 2011

It’s such a treat to find fruit growing in the wild. Blueberries on the banks of a pond in the Berkshires. Raspberries and blackberries, glowing like jewels in the bramble. And grapes, especially grapes, with their dangling clusters of purple and green-gold fruit. It’s a primal pleasure, the fruit so colorful, the urge to pick [...]

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