What Is It About Ice Cream?

post no. 18

29 April 2013 0 comments

Picture above, staged and ready to go, part of a dozen “One Night in Bangkok” Sundaes, the overall idea and recipes courtesy of our dessert secret weapon, Jeni’s Splendid Ice Creams at Home. The ice cream—spicy, salty, sweet Bangkok Peanut. The sauce, praline. The base, a ripe banana. The topping, fresh whipped cream. And the garnish—more salty peanuts. (Jeni calls for Spanish peanuts, smallish roundish nuts still in their red paper wrapper, which I remember clearly from childhood but seem now nearly impossible to find.) In other words, a serious dessert. Not only that, but a serious dessert following a very serious dinner. But did anyone even blink? Or demurely protest, oh, none for me, thanks…? Not a chance.

And when the plates came back, they were polished clean. As a friend once said, they should design a specially made spoon just to get every last drop. It’s yet another truth learned from serving these intensive, lesson-bearing dinners—everyone loves ice cream! Not very surprising, of course, but so handy when menu-planning.

There’s another lesson too, to be learned from Jeni Britton Bauer, David Lebowitz, Ben and Jerry’s Homemade Ice Cream and Dessert Book and others—homemade ice cream is a pretty simple and reliably delicious thing to make, and always impresses. I guess the word hasn’t gone out that with a basic ice cream maker, a handful of common ingredients, a half-hour of cooking time, a half-hour of spinning time, and some foresight (to freeze the canister beforehand), you can wow anyone. Come to think of it, maybe it’s better to keep it a secret, and let everyone think you’ve got a special gift.

Here’s our menu:

Sage-Grilled Cheese Sandwiches • Olives • Tears of the Prophet Cocktail

Roasted Root Vegetable Salad with Pumpkin Seed Oil

Braised Short Ribs, Polenta, Escarole

One Night in Bangkok Sundae

Our charity was Toni’s Kitchen. Our guests were lively and convivial. Below are a few photos, with more on Flickr.

The short ribs:

 Sue and Marc:

Radika, Phile, and Connie, having Tears before dinner:

Miguel and Marc:

Marilyn, Lance, and Steve:

Looking up the table:

Keith, Connie (mostly hidden), the cook, and Sue:

Phile:

Asa, Miguel, Marilyn, Keith, and Connie:

Keith:

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Sweet Seventeen

post no. 17

17 February 2013 0 comments

Our seventeenth dinner. Seventeen! A lot of menus, a lot of planning. Especially for this group of guests, more than half of whom were repeats…four of them multiple repeats, in fact. So the challenge of 17 was how to keep it fresh. Foodwise, Sharing the Table is the opposite of a restaurant with its core menu of signature dishes. Foodwise, the intention is all about exploring ingredients.

Early inspiration for our Sharing menu-building came out of A Platter of Figs, a cookbook based around casual yet interesting dinners for eight by David Tanis, longtime chef at Chez Panisse. One of dishes that always intrigued me was David’s technique of roasting duck breasts, tying the two halves together, belly to belly as it were, and so the duck breast became our ingredient. And what a perfect ingredient it is.

Traditionally called a magret, the breast of the hybrid moulard duck is like a convenience food—plump, meaty, boneless, with its own flavorful layer of skin and fat, and perfectly portioned (half a breast, which is usually around a pound or more, feeds two; the full breast, four). It takes to a variety of interesting seasonings, and is so simple to make that anyone who’s half-way competent in the kitchen will turn out a perfect (enough) result, a delicious, juicy red meat with just the right touch of gaminess.

Here’s our menu:

Duck Liver Crostini • Radishes and Olives • Pitcher of Manhattans

Beet and Leek Salad with Walnut Sauce

Roasted Duck Breast with Red Wine Blood Orange Sauce, Wild Mushroom Farrotto, and Baby Bok Choy

Upside-Down Blood Orange Cake with Ginger Ice Cream and Chocolate-Dipped Crystalized Orange Peel • The Doctor

Adding to the duck theme, we served duck liver crostini as our bite. And instead of choosing a default Italian-style sauteed leafy green, baby bok choy added just the right echoing note of duck’s more prominent role in Chinese cooking. Here’s a picture, though it’s too brown:

Blood oranges are also in season, so we wove those into sauce for the duck, alluding to the traditional French pairing of duck and Seville orange, and the dessert, a pretty upside-down cake.

Best of all, we had such a lively group of guests! There was much laughter, much wine, seconds were eaten, and the dinner didn’t break up until well after midnight. Our charity was Toni’s Kitchen. Below are a few more photos, with more, as usual, on Flickr.

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Sharing the Table, Sharing the Music

December 16, 2012

Our last charity dinner of 2012 came on an auspicious date, December 8th: It’s the date of the Feast of the Immaculate Conception, honoring the Catholic dogma that from the moment Mary was conceived, she was free of original sin. It’s also Bodhi Day, celebrated by Buddhists as the traditional date of the Buddha’s enlightenment. [...]

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Sharing the Table – “Veg au Vin”

November 23, 2012

Our third vegetarian dinner. Like the previous two, it forces a different way of thinking. How to satisfy the carnivores? How to surprise the vegetarians? Will there be enough food? And as in the previous two, we added an extra course, drew more on seasonality, thought a little harder about the progression of tastes, worked [...]

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It Starts with Pissaladiere (Sharing the Table XIV)

October 21, 2012

The story of this meal is about being hungover, still, from Truro. For example, we’d met a friend and his family for a day at the beach, then returned to our house. Earlier that day I’d picked about a dozen stout leaves of Tuscan kale from the garden planted by Kalu, the sherpa working on [...]

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Sharing the Table XIII

October 2, 2012

Months passed between this dinner and our previous Sharing the Table. For the second year in a row we had to cancel our June meal; in 2011 a flash flood knocked us out (let’s say it started by killing our water heater), and this year, family illness. And so we had a four month layoff. [...]

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Sharing the Table XII

September 28, 2012

[This dinner took place on 12 May 2012, and this article was originally posted with the title, "Burying the Lede."] We hosted our twelfth Sharing the Table in the middle of May. It was a vegetarian meal—for twelve, in a nice bit of symmetry. These dinners, especially the vegetarian ones, always test our skills as [...]

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Sharing the Table XI

September 28, 2012

[This dinner took place on 20 April 2012.] In the midst of a demanding stretch at work, when it was impossible to think about anything Ingredients, we hosted our latest Sharing the Table. It was good to get back into thinking about food as something other than what’s easy and quick for dinner tonight. The [...]

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Sharing the Table X

March 19, 2012

A wonderful farewell to winter dinner. And also a menu challenge, with one vegetarian guest and another who has serious food allergies (and an aversion to red meat). It was interesting to move within these parameters, picking choices and then discarding them. We finally came up with a bistro-inspired meal. Despite my hesitation to serve [...]

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Sharing the Table IX

February 14, 2012

Our “anniversary” dinner—the year swung around. I wrote a more detailed account here, in honor of the year, but wanted to note the menu: Crostini with Marinated Anchovies and Manchego Cheese • Tears of the Prophet Cocktail Cold Noodles with Sesame Sauce and Two Pickles “The Bo Ssam” • Roast Pork Shoulder with Kimchi and [...]

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